End of the Honeymoon...

Well what is there to say that hasn't been said? Oh wait I have not updated my blog in a terribly long time nor have I even finished telling the stories I began months ago. Now we all know that I am not an individual that is one to let things slide or go incomplete so without further ado the 4th and final installment of my 1st trip to Japan.

Osaka-jo.

I woke up in the morning feeling refreshed and excited. Today was to be the day I went to Himeji-jo. The famed White Heron, (a historic Japanese castle). Before I could go and see the penultimate example of Japanese Castle architecture I felt that I should visit one of the lesser castles for comparisons sake. It was thus that I went to Osaka-jo or as we would call it Osaka Castle.

Osaka Castle has had an unfortunate history, it has been burned down several times during its long life and now is a ferrocrete reconstruction from the pre-WW2 era. That is not to say that it is not without its charm, but it is sad to see all the modernized machinery in what is supposed to be a timeless relic. I will admit that Osaka-jo is an impressive sight and has a very nice park set about it. After exploring the castle and the museum located inside I felt it was time to move to one of the major reasons I wanted to visit Japan in the first place. Himeji-jo. As I was leaving the castle grounds I was compelled to enter a building because of banshee-like screaming emanating from its halls.

A view of the bailey.

After watching some of the Kendo demonstration I knew it was time to go and find the train to Himeji. A quick stop to mail some post cards (I'd have mailed all of them but I lost some of the addresses.) and I was off to Osaka station to take the slow train to happiness er Himeji.... On the train I made sure that I was on the coastal side because the tracks passed beneath one of the greatest testaments to human achievement and architecture the Akashi-Kaikyo bridge. The bridge is the worlds largest suspension bridge and is an incredible sight to behold. Once we passed the bridge I was finally on the home stretch...only 45 minutes away from the White Heron. That was until tragedy struck.

Ladies and gentlemen the world's largest suspension bridge.

Well tragedy might be over playing it a bit but there was drama nonetheless. The train that I was on began to slow down, and eventually came to a stop one before my scheduled departure zone. I assumed the delay was nothing out of the ordinary and happily thought about my impending nirvana. I was wrong, as it turned out the train was being stopped and sent back to Osaka due to inclement weather. I had no idea what weather would stop a train, but I was forced to miss out on Himeji-jo, head back to Osaka empty handed or attempt to find an alternative land route not knowing anything about the region I was in. Naturally I opted for the castle. Luckily as I was leaving the station I managed to get a glimpse of the castle way off in the distance several miles away. With the general direction in mind I set out on foot. As any good pilgrimage would have I created a song to celebrate my travels and put it all into perspective. The tune was "Hi Ho" from Snow White and the Seven Dwarves, and largely had me repeating "Hi ho hi ho I'm off to Himeji-jo". While I received my share of stares I would gladly "suffer" them again to be back in Himeji-jo. Of course not knowing the direction or location of my destination was not enough of an obstacle I had to add in a pinch of failing light and the castle closing in 2 hours to speed me on my trail. I managed to find the castle grounds with about 45 minutes left and was given free entry into grounds. I would say more about it, but I am going to let the pictures speak for themselves.

You can just make out the castle in the distance perched among the hills.

A picture of the castle grounds taken from just across a small stream.

A southerly view of the White Heron.

Yours truly at the base of the battlements.

A small path looking up at the main structure.

A view from the top of the castle.

Overlooking the inner courtyard.

After being fully sated and happy at my time in Himeji-jo I turned back to the trains and headed for Kobe, where I was to eat my last Japanese meal. Kobe Beef. Suffice it to say it was a delicious experience that was worth every yen I spent on it. While I was there I had a lovely conversation these two spanish newlyweds who thought I was an Spaniard as well.

My $100 dollar steak.

After the delightful meal it was time for my last night out in Japan. I found a really cool hole-in the wall where this couple were bartending. We befriended eachother and had a wonderful night drinking, dancing having fun, only it ended with domestic abuse, me in the police station trying to file a claim, and me being unwilling to except that it's "just how it is in Japan". So that was the end of my trip. A thrilling week filled with mystique, merriment, awe, beauty, and ending with ugliness and sadness. Will I be back, oh of course I will, because how can you not return to the most beautiful place one the planet, when its only a short plane ride away.

Until later pasties.
Will Out